"Parvaneh" in Persian means Butterfly


Muztagh Ata, or Muztagh Ata (In Uyghur Language means: Father of Ice mountain) is one of the highest in Kunlun-Shan, although in map it is more close to the Pamirs.

From top of Muztagh you will see a nice view of Kongur(7649m), the highest peak of the Kunlun Shan. It’s near to the Taklamakan Desert, The Karakoram Highway, Karakul Lake and border of Pakistan. One of closest city to Muztagh is Kashi or Kashgar: an old city on silk road, a nice small city with lots of handicraft and traditional malls.

The first ascent of Muztagh was in 1956 by a mix group of Chinese and Russian climbers, via the west ridge, which is now the normal route but Sven Hedin, famous Swedish explorer and geographer in 1894 is the first one who attempted for summit and there were lots of try after him like Shipton and Tillman.

Muztagh has usually deep snow and needs snow shoes, or Ski. Normal Base camp is located in a nice flat area about 4450 m, where few local people live and work as high porters, yak or camel drivers or produce and trade handicrafts.

I climbed it in summer 2010 in a group with two friends: Mr. Hamidi the manager and Mr.  Mahmudi a member of my climbing and mountaineering club, Espilat.

We arrived on 24th July to Base camp and started to climb and acclimatization on 25th by touch C1 but bad weather forced us 4 days to stay BC. However we reached to summit (7546 m) on 4th August at 12:15 by climbing during a very cold day…

We had to be very fast to use only few days with good weather and it was a nice experience for me as my first expedition.

If weather be clear, some of 8000 m in Pakistan are visible from the top. Muztagh is very nice for ski also, only should be careful of deep and sometimes hidden crevasses!!!

It was my first record: The first Iranian woman on top of Muztagh Ata.

AUTHOR: Parvaneh Kazemi
1 Comment
  • Necat Ozisic

    Your photos are all great. It is nice to see enormous achievements. Just why you put your country’s flag below your group’s name in summit photo shot?

    July 25, 2013

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