"Parvaneh" in Persian means Butterfly


Gasherbrum II 8035m, the 13th highest peak in the world and Gasherbrum massif is located in the Karakoram, Pakistan. It is located at the top of the Baltoro Glacier, on the border of Gilgit–Baltistan of Pakistan, and Xinjiang of China.

“Gasherbrum” comes from Balti words of Rgasha (beautiful) and Brum (mountain), beautiful mountain.
The first climb of this mountain was on 7 July 1956, by Austrians Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch, and Hans Willenpart and by the Southwest Ridge.

It’s also known as K4 because of Montgomerie’s naming in 1856.

The first woman on top of Gasherbrum II was Rohny Lampard from Great Britain on 1989.
The first winter ascent was on February 2, 2011, by Cory Richards, Denis Urubko, and Simone Moro.
The first Iranian ascend was on 8 July 1997 by Hasan Najjarian, Rasoul Naghavi & Hamidreza Olanj.
On 22 June 2011, Leila Esfandiari, Iranian female climber, felt on her death after the first Irani female ascent of this peak.

I started my trip to Pakistan on 16 June 2018. After two days preparing official permits & logistics for expedition in Skardu, we drove to Askole by jeep on 18 June. We reached BC on 25 June after one week of trekking. From the early days of our trekking weather was too bad and unfavorable. We arrived BC in snow and for almost one week couldn’t see mountain because of non-stop snow! Heavy snow for a long period, increased avalanche prone in high altitude badly, Banana ridge (the ridge on the way from C1 to C2) was so dangerous, and climbers were not interested in working for fixing rope. There were a few attempts for a summit in alpine style, but all failed. Finally, only Adam Bielicki and Felix Berg reached summit “by fragile and surprisingly difficult west face” as Adam told, on 16 July.

Some of the climbers changed their goal to G1 and tried for it, but there was not good condition also, finally only two climbers Giampaolo Corona & Luis Stitzinger could climb G1 in this season.
Even though I couldn’t reach the top this time but it was a good experience. It was my first trip to Pakistan, and now I have a better idea about Pakistani mountain, culture, and people. Hope in next try have a chance to better attempt but with global climate changing seems each time should have less & less hope!

AUTHOR: Reza Savadkouhi
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