"Parvaneh" in Persian means Butterfly



Dhaulagiri I (8167m) is located in western part in Himalaya of Nepal and 34km far from Annapurna I. From C2 you can see Annapurna and Nilgiri, a very nice scenery.

This peak is highest in a long chain of Dhaulagiri Mountain which is 120km. This mountain including 7 main summits: Highest Dhaulagiri I (8167m) and lowest Dhaulagiri VII or Phuta Hiunchuli (7246m).

Dhaulagiri means “White Mountain” and its first ascent was in 13 May 1960 by a team from Switzerland, Austria and Nepal.

The First Iranian attempt was on this mountain was in 2006 by Mr. Ansari and Mr. Etemadifar, they reached 8000m. Unfortunately Mr. Etemadifar who was the first “Snow Leopard” in Iran, passed during his second attempt there in 2009.
In 2010 a big group of Men by “Iran Climbing Federation” tried on Dhaulagiri and finally 5 of then reached summit including Mr. Azim Gheychisaz.
In 2012 my dear late friend Mr. Mahdi Amidi (the second Snow Leopard of Iran) reached summit with a nice- unforgettable attempt.

Bad weather and special condition made lots of problem for climbers in last year, nobody could reach summit in 2013 and 3 people passed away there…

I had a try on this beautiful summit in spring 2014. I was alone from Iran but joint 2 other nice friends in BC: Fiorenzo from Switzerland and Andrea from Italy. We had 2 Sherpa but not good ones and lots of problem with them and with bad weather also…

Co-work of strong groups is necessary for reaching top of Dhaulagiri, the thing that was our main problem there. There was no co-work and finally after reaching C3 in 7250m, we couldn’t go ahead because of deep snow and no possibility of fix rope and a jet stream which was coming in few days later.
Our expedition time was over and we had to leave BC and mountain same as other expeditions there: American- British, Chilean, Korean, and Sherpa’s of Japanese who were there to find a Japanese dead body… But we already fixed rope till 7400m which was used by a team which arrived very late to BC after departure of other teams…

All of us (except last team) left BC without summit but we worked very hard to reach C3, there were lots of bad weather days, storms and deep snow in our time.

Our camps altitude: BC=4600m, C1=5700m, C2=6570m, C3=7250m

Trekking round Dhaulagiri is nice also but a little hard because of Chhanbardan glacier before BC and 2 passes after BC: French pass & Dampus pass. In bad weather it’s really dangerous to leave BC toward this passes, may lose the way then please be careful…



AUTHOR: Parvaneh Kazemi
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