"Parvaneh" in Persian means Butterfly

peakbutterfly

The 4th highest peak in the world and neighbor of Everest, top of the world.

After climbing Everest on 18th May 2012 I went immediately from camp4 of Everest to camp 4 of Lhotse on 19th May along with my Sherpa Nima. Camp 4 of Lhotse is a dangerous place, very steeply and not enough place for tent. We had plan to climb Lhotse the day after on 20th May but weather changed very badly and forced us to descent camp 2 for 4 days.

Then by a 2 days hard trying we reached from camp2 to summit of Lhotse on 25th May 2012 at 7 am. You never can forget Climbing Lhotse after camp4!

[warningbox]A long dangerous couloir by falling rocks and Ice!!! All moments you should be aware and very careful, rocks and Ice may hit and makes problem for you. It happened for me too, on my face with a little distance with my eyes! I was so lucky that wasn’t serious. [/warningbox]

From top of Lhotse you will see a nice view of Everest and Makalu. When we started in early morning from camp4, light column on Everest, under Balcony and South summit was so beautiful, lots of people were climbing Everest…

My new record in this climbing:

[successbox]With ascent Lhotse summit, I was the first woman in the World who climbed both: Everest & Lhotse in single season, single week and the First Iranian woman on Lhotse also, new records for me. [/successbox]



Watch more photos: [scbutton link=”http://www.peakbutterfly.com/?p=133″ target=”blank” variation=”light_red” size=”small” align=”none”]Everest & Lhotse Photo Gallery[/scbutton]

AUTHOR: Parvaneh Kazemi
19 Comments
  • Hi, I’d like to say congratulation.
    Best wishes…

    September 5, 2012
  • Carlo ORLANDO

    Hi Parvaneh, really good job, as usual for you. Enjoy your life. Carlo.

    September 24, 2012
    • Dear Carlo, thanks a lot. You’re always so kind. Hope see you again in Himalaya for another exciting expedition.

      October 2, 2012
  • Arman

    I believed you could do this, but when I really heard your huge success by phone, I felt an explosion in myself, the special sense that I never forget it.

    October 22, 2012
    • Never can forget your helps and sending positive energy during that days…thanks for all of your supports my dear

      October 23, 2012
  • mihin

    Very nice! Congratulations!

    February 6, 2013
    • Thanks dear Mihin, hope to meet you again in great Himalaya

      February 6, 2013
  • hope you succeed on kanchenjunga this season, parvaneh, wish i could have climbed with you, do let me know if/when your planning makalu…

    April 12, 2013
  • حماسه ای غرور آفرین

    درود برشما و همنورد محترمتان
    بازگشت موفقیت آمیز شمارا از سومین قله بلند دنیا
    (کانچن جونگا)خوش آمد می گوییم
    امیدبه خدا در8 مارس پذیرای شما در گروه کوهنوردی بزرگخو-ناصری در جمع کارگران هستیم

    June 3, 2013
    • سپاس بیکران
      با اشتیاق منتظر افتخار حضور مجدد در جمع صمیمی گروه بزرگخو-ناصری هستم
      شاد و پاینده باشید

      June 8, 2013
  • Hello Mrs. Kazemi !
    It is very interesting to know about you and your precious memories here. I am a snow-skier that is highly interested in climbing too, but at 39 years old, and involving with my job as an engineer and projects. I think it is a little bit late to start to become professional mountaineer, although I did it in age of 20 and before 30 in some average peaks In Iran. Anyway I continue my skiing until the time that I won’t be stop. I want to tell you congratulations for your braveness, courageousness, and wish that you have always healthy climbing. I decide to start with Dena and then Damavand ! Hope that I can use your experiences as a good trainer here.

    Best regards
    A.Moshiri
    Senior Automation Engineer

    July 6, 2013
    • Mr Moshiri
      Thanks a lot for your nice words and hope you start again very soon. I’m sure you will reach high goals soon.

      All the best
      Butterfly

      July 8, 2013
  • Abdi Moshiri

    Dear Mrs Kazemi
    Thank you for your motivator terms!
    I searched the path between Everest and Lhotse by Google-Earth and with very closing view angle, It is a long and narrow edge type passage from Everest peak to Lhotse, and I saw some where in this passage covered by snow with a dangerous steep. Please tell me how you could be pass this way? Isn’t there any flat even small rocks to pass in relax and safe mode?
    Also isn’t is the best way to ascent to Everest the way of climbing perpendicular of middle the passage between Everest and Lhotse? I check it closing by Google Earth, and found it the best way possible 🙂
    Although I think ascending form Tibet mountain step in north is with slower slope, but snowy and icy more 🙂

    Thank you in advanced 🙂

    July 11, 2013
    • Dear Mr Abdi

      Thanks for your attention.
      I didn’t traverse from Everest to Lhotse! I descent to Everest C4, went to Lhotse C4 and climbed Lhotse from normal path. if you want to go to Lhotse from Everest C4 straightly, it will be hard work and needs lot of work: fix rope by yourself a long and dangerous way…
      And for Everest Also, the best way is the normal path not straightly from C4.
      All the best

      July 11, 2013
  • Abdi Moshiri

    thank you for your comment. sorry for late answer. I was such interested that try to a virtual path finding by google earth. You are right, Going from Everest to Lhotse directly one ice, and on the edge was very dangerous, although it seems you don’t have any dramatic slope, but you always have risk of falling down.I can say the highest narrow way in the world!
    Although I think ascending Everest from north axes in Tibet must be easier, but very icy. I would be glad if you give me the link which determine the normal path and camps on it.
    I just heard the bad event has been happened to our good Arash mountaineers on Broad peak returning. Although it is not very optimistic, but I wish they can be alive if a miracle would be happened.I am really sad and unhappy. I feel them and conditions by heart, 🙁

    It seems Pakistani mountains which killed dear Leila, and now (maybe) these brave men, are not very safe to ascend, because of not having skillful mountain pilot and rescue team. Hope to stop these Karakorum mountaineering until the time that we have provided standards there to have a safe mountaineering.

    All the best

    July 23, 2013
  • mehdi

    dear butterfly your nature is climb top of flower happy to hear from your all success . dear parvaneh god bless you and take care yourself .

    July 26, 2013
  • Karsten Otto

    Hi Parvaneh,
    congratulations again and i wish you all the best for the future.
    It was a pleasure to meet you in Germany and to give you a ride to Munich.
    best regards,
    Karsten

    October 9, 2014
    • Thanks dear Karsten, it was nice to me too. All the best…

      October 10, 2014

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