"Parvaneh" in Persian means Butterfly

peakbutterfly

Kanchenjunga or kangchenjunga is the 3rd highest in the world and eastern one among all 8000m, in border of Nepal and Sikkim province of India.
Kanchenjunga mountain is contained 5 summit, 4 of them over 8000m:
Kanchenjunga Main (8586m)
Kanchenjunga West (8505m)
Kanchenjunga Central (8482m)
South Kanchenjunga (8494m)
Kangbachen (7903m)
The first ascend of main summit was on 25 May 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band, members of a British expedition from SW face which is called normal path now. Himalayan Data Base says that their camps altitude was:
BC1(5000m), BC2(5485m), C1(6000m), C2(6220m), C3(6650m), C4(7160m), C5(7710m), C6(8200m)
Bad climate and strong winds are the most problem in this mountain.
Nowadays most of climbers set 4 camps over BC(5500m): C1(6200m), C2(6400m), C3(7000m), C4(7700m)
Summit day is a long day and at first you should pass main couloir which starts around 7700m and ends over 8200m. In 8200m you should turn to right, and start a traverse on rocky path to summit.
I went to Nepal in spring 2013 to climb this mountain. I tried 3 times over camp4 but unfortunately couldn’t reach summit. The highest point for me was 8200m, end of boring couloir and first of exciting traverse!
From BC you should start by walking on glacier, some steep slopes, a crevasse and below C1 you have a vertical icy part. C1 to C2 is short but don’t set C2 over 6400. Ours was on 6500 and finally avalanche destroyed it completely. Luckily nobody was there that time. C2 to C3 is long, some crevasses, seracs and short icy part also. From C3 to C4 stars with steepy path, then a small Plateau, some icy part, walking through crevasses and steep slopes.
I was in a group with 5 other people who some of them were too slow. I preferred to climb same as always alone but this time my sherpa changed all of my plans! At first and second attempt our C4 was very low (7350m) and we start very late and our group was too slow. There was not fix rope at all and we climbed in alpine style, then we lost time and in second attempt, when we reach 8200m, it was 14:30 and too late to start traverse.
After few days rest in BC we started again, all of climbers and sherpas. The original plan was fixing rope till summit but due to some problem with sherpas who accepted responsibility to carry rope and make path in a meeting in BC, later fixed rope was finished at 8300m.
On 19th May we raised our C4 to 7500m at 2 pm, but it wasn’t enough high yet… When after a very hot day and getting some sun exhausting, we started from new C4 at 6 pm same day for summit, I felt I can’t breathe. Unfortunately I got a very hard throat infection the same day! I climbed 7 hours with hard condition but finally I felt it’s last moment to return and save my life… Very sad thing was bad news after summit: 14 people reached summit next day but 5 of them never returned to BC, 5 strong men: 2 Hungarian (Zolt Eross & Peter Kiss), 1 Korean (Nam Su Park) and 2 sherpas (Bibash Gorung & Phurba Dorchi. There was no fixed rope over 8300m and it was main reason of these accidents.
Kanchenjunga is the most beautiful mountain I had ever been, but it’s full of sad memories of our dead friends too…
At midnight you can see lights of a big Indian city (I think it was Darjiling) from 8000m, imagination of light and warmth while you are freezing in dark night!
When you are there over 8000m, you have a nice view of great Jannu or Kumbhakarna (local name), Kabru mountain which includes beautiful Talung peak and also Yalung glacier.
There is a flight from Kathmandu to Badraphur or Birathnagar domestic airport and then 2 days by car to start point of trekking: Sinam. Trekking path to BC is long (about 7 days) and passes small villages and teahouses, not good for overnight, camping is much better! And last day, you had to camp because you had to stay on Yalung glacier.
Transfer to BC by helicopter is the best way because there is big problem by porters also; mostly they are kids that work without proper wearing, can’t stay in cold weather and walk on glacier, mostly leave luggages and escape!
In summary, it was a good experience and I learnt a lot, the only bad point there was no summit for me as the first time in my expeditions. I’m happy to decide right in last moment and could act logically and summit fever couldn’t get over me.
However I love this mountain and hope go back there someday in future.

AUTHOR: Parvaneh Kazemi

Born: Sep 1970, Tehran, Iran. Academic Degree: BS in Mathematics. Occupation: Mathematics Teacher. Hobby: Mountaineering, Mountain Guiding, Photography, Art, Literature.

1 Comment
  • Hangodi Iren

    Our memorable climbers Kiss Peter and Eröss Zsolt sleep eternal dream.

    April 29, 2014

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