"Parvaneh" in Persian means Butterfly

peakbutterfly

Ama Dablam is one of the most beautiful mountains in my opinion. It is located in Khumbu valley. When you are going to Everest BC, after Namche Bazar will see this gorgeous mount in the right hand. Ama in Nepali means mother and Dablam means necklace and AmaDablam or mother’s necklace is referred to special shape of this mount: 2 long ridges as open arms of mother and a hanging glacier as a necklace.

The first accent of AmaDablam was in 1961 by a team lead by Sir Edmund Hillary, who at first was told that this mountain is unclimbable!

American climber Ms. Sue Giller after climbing Ama in 1982 as leader of first women group, has told about it:

A near prefect climb on a near prefect mountain


When I saw AmaDablam’s picture, it became my dream to climb it someday and in autumn 2011, I tried to follow my dream.

On 14 Oct I went to Nepal alone and on 18 Oct flight to Lukla with my sherpa Nima Gyalzen, who was one of our sherpas in Manaslu, my last expedition.

After 3 days trekking we reached to Ama base camp on 21 Oct and had a very fast climbing: 22 Oct Puja day, 23 Oct camp1, 24 Oct passing C2 and reach C3, 25 Oct summit day and descent to C3, 26 Oct descent to BC!

I was in good physically condition and my Sherpa also, so we didn’t need acclimatization or staying in C2 one day more.

View from top of AmaDablam is excellent: Everest, Lhotse, Noptse, Pumori, Island peak and many other nice peaks.

Climbing AmaDablam needs a collection of experiences in rock climbing, Ice climbing and mountaineering and braveness especially on Yellow tower under camp 2, where is a 90 degree wall.

It was one of the best in my expeditions and my 3rd record:

The First Iranian woman on top of AmaDablam, hope come back there someday again.




AUTHOR: Parvaneh Kazemi
7 Comments
  • Arman

    I think the braveness ascending of AmaDablam was to prove you to yourself, and a great pride for us…

    October 23, 2012
    • Thanks dear Arman, actually it was a great experience for me…

      October 23, 2012
  • Hello! interesting site! I’m really like it! Very, very good!

    February 1, 2013
  • Shirin

    Elizabeth Hawley!!! did you actually meet her?! She is such a legend! Is she really sharp-tongued? 🙂

    May 16, 2013
    • I’m lucky because all times in Nepal have met her! even this time she came to my hotel 2 times and made me so happy. She is one of Himalayan legend…

      June 8, 2013
  • Amir Doustmohammadi

    Dear Parvaneh
    In March 2013 when I passed Namcheh Bazar to Island peak mount it was the first time that I saw Ama Dablam mount magnificent and beautiful. Although it is under 7000 meters but I know it is so hard for climbing because of its high slope. You are source of pride for Iran and as an Iranian I am proud of you. I wish always be proud and successful.
    Best Regards
    Amir

    January 12, 2015
    • Dear Amir
      You’re right, it’s a very beautiful mountain, I love it and hope you climb it someday also.
      Thanks for all of your kindness.
      All the best to you.

      January 17, 2015

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