AmaDablam (6812m) Summit

May 13, 2013 by Parvaneh Kazemi

Posted under: Ama Dablam, Summits

Ama Dablam is one of the most beautiful mountains in my opinion. It is located in khumbu valley. When you are going to Everest BC, after Namche Bazar will see it this gorgeous mount in the right hand. Ama in Nepali means mother and Dablam means necklace and AmaDablam or mother’s necklace is referred to special shape of this mount: 2 long ridges as open arms of mother and a hanging glacier as a necklace.

The first accent of AmaDablam was in 1961 by a team lead by Sir Edmund Hillary, who at first was told that this mountain is unclimbable!

American climberMs. Sue Giller after climbing Ama in 1982 as leader of first women group,told about it:

A near prefect climb on a near prefect mountain

When I saw AmaDablam’s picture, it became my dream to climb it someday and in autumn 2011 I tried to reach my dream.

On 14 Oct I went to Nepal alone and on 18 Oct flight to Lukla with my nice Sherpa NimaGyalzen, who was our sirdar (leader of sherpa’s team) in Manaslu.

After 3 days trekking we reached to Ama base camp on 21 Oct and had a very fast climbing: 22 Oct Puja DAY, 23 Oct camp1, 24 Oct passing C2 and reach C3, 25 Oct summit day and descent to C3, 26 Oct descent to BC!

I was in good physically condition and my Sherpa too, so we didn’t need acclimatization or staying in C2 one day more.

View from top of AmaDablam is excellent: Everest, Lhotse, Noptse, Pumori, Island peak and many other nice peaks.

Climbing AmaDablam needs a collection of rock climbing, Ice climbing and mountaineering and braveness especially on Yellow tower under camp 2, where is a 90 degree wall.

It was one of the best in my expeditions and my 3rd record:

The First Iranian woman on top of AmaDablam, hope come back there someday.